What is the pump performance curve used for?

chart.jpgWhat is the pump performance curve used for?

The pump performance curve, also referred to as performance data, helps you choose the correct pump. It shows the relationship between the flow-rate (Q) and the delivery head (H) of a pump.

Explanation of the performance curve below

At the maximum flow rate (Q) of 130 litres per minute, measured directly on the pressure duct of the pump, the delivery head height equals 0 cm. At maximum delivery head Height (H) of 400 cm the flow-rate equals 0 litres.

Determining the operating point

In our example we need the pump to displace water 1 m above the water surface. By looking at the pumps performance curve, we can locate the operating point (see example image) you can see the red mark at 1 m in height, that is our operating point and at that point we can see that approx. 90 l/m are displaced – This is determined theoretically as small hose diameter, the hose length, any fittings and built in curvature can change the value of the flow in the extreme.

The delivery head is specified in mwc (metre water column).
1 mwc ~ 0.1 bar
A Pump Performance Curve is produced by a pump manufacturer from actual tests performed and shows the relationship between Flow and Total Dynamic Head. Higher TDH = lower flow, Lower TDH = higher flow).

Turtle Care

TURTLES SPEND MOST OF THEIR TIME IN THE WATER,HOWEVER THEY DO NEED TO BE ABLE TO GET OUT OF THE WATER IF THEY WANT TO

A FILTER IS RECOMMENDED AND A 50% WATER CHANGE EVERY FORTNIGHT.HOWEVER IF NO FILTER IS USED THE TOTAL WATER WILL NEED TO BE CHANGED EVERY WEEK. PRODUCTS SUCH AS TURTLE CLEAN WILL HELP KEEP THE WATER CLEAN AND CHLORINE NEUTRALISING DROPS SHOULD BE USED

TURTLES WILL NEED A HEATER WHILE THEY ARE YOUNG AND IF KEPT INDOORS SET AT AROUND 20-22C

TURTLE BLOCKS THAT SLOWLY DISSOLVE IN THE WATER WILL HELP KEEP THE P.H LEVELS HIGHER WHICH PREVENTS DAMAGE OCCURRING TO THEIR TURTLE SHELL

TURTLES REQUIRE CALCIUM AND VITAMIN D SO THAT THEIR SHELL WILL DEVELOP

CORRECTLY AND NOT BECOME SOFT,ACCESS TO DIRECT SUNLIGHT (20 MINUTES PER DAY) OR USE OF UV FLUORESCENT TUBE AND THE ADDITION OF A CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT TO THE FOOD WILL OVERCOME THIS PROBLEM

TURTLES PREFER TO FEED WHEN THEY ARE IN THE WATER,REMOVE ANY UNEATEN FOOD AS THIS WILL POLLUTE THE WATER,

BABY TURTLES WILL EAT BABY TURTLE DINNER

ADULT TURTLES WILL EAT TURTLE DINNER(FROZEN PRE-PACKAGED DINNER)LEAN MINCE MEAT,FISH PIECES,EARTHWORMS,CRICKETS AND DRY PELLETS.AS WITH ALL ANIMALS A

VARIED DIET IS THE BEST

DURING COLD WEATHER THE TURTLE MAY REFUSE FOOD

WHEN THEY ARE OLDER A TURTLE CAN BE KEPT OUTDOORS IN A POND WHICH HAS AN

ADJACENT LAND AREA.ENCLOSING THE THE POND IS A GOOD IDEA,TO KEEP THE TURTLE IN AND SAFE FROM CATS AND DOGS.

DURING WINTER THE TURTLE WILL HIBERNATE BECOMING INACTIVE AND WILL REFUSE FOOD FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME.DO NOT DISTURB YOUR TURTLE DURING HIBERNATION AS THIS COULD CAUSE DEATH.

NORMAL ACTIVITY WILL RESUME IN THE WARMER MONTHS

Where a pond should be installed

The best position in your garden for a pond is one that you can enjoy the most. However the amount of light the pond receives is a factor on how well the pond will do. A spot in full sun or full shade will have undesirable effects. Six hours of light will be sufficient for plants and fish. If your pond is in full sunlight you should consider the use of a shade sail or be prepared to invest in an Ultra Violet Light that will reduce the sun’s effect on algal blooms. You may be able to create shade with consideration of taller surrounding plants and taller shade producing rushes.

Ground levels are a factor when considering where to place your pond. Level ground will make it easier to build but for areas with a slope, you can build up your levels using excess soil that you remove from the pond site. Keep in mind to retain soil from being washed into the pond.

Water Run off needs consideration, the run off will pollute a pond every time the gardens watered or it rains. To avoid this, take into consideration the natural fall of the land. Gullies and low spots that will fill with water from heavy rain must be avoided. Garden run off can be redirected through the use of a raised pond edge or drainage placed on the high side of the pond.

Deciduous trees should be avoided near a pond. Leaves will break down in water and release nutrients that feed algae so avoid building your pond directly under large trees that drop leaves and flowers. Root damage can also be avoided by staying well clear of trees. If you have a leaf problem, try using an internal pond skimmer to collect the falling leaf litter.

Power is needed to operate pumps, filters and lights. Most pond pumps come with a 10m lead but you may need to get power moved to your pond; if this is the case please use a qualified electrician. If power is unable to be installed to the desired location you could consider using a Solar Pump – See Solar pond pumps

Ground substrates will determine in which way you build you pond. Sandy soils may need to be stiffened using a sand cement mix, Clay is ideal for shaping the perfect pond and may need no more preparation than using some pond liner underlay. Rock is the least desirable substrate to be digging in, so if you do hit rock; make sure all sharp edges are removed, add some protection with some fine sand and use pond liner underlay.

Ponds In General

PLANNING

PLAN YOUR POND OR WATER FEATURE TO ENHANCE AND COMPLIMENT THE BEAUTY OF YOUR GARDEN, AVOID AREAS CLOSE TO TREES, ROTTING LEAF LITTER WILL POLLUTE THE POND AND ENCOURAGE ALGAE GROWTH . IT IS IMPORTANT TO SITE YOUR POND WHERE IT WILL NOT BE POLLUTED BY INSECTICIDES AND WEED KILLERS

ACCESS TO POWER SHOULD BE ASSESSED AS PUMPS AND LIGHTS REQUIRE ELECTRICITY, SOLAR LIGHTS AND PUMPS ARE AVAILABLE, HOWEVER THEY ARE EXPENSIVE

THE LARGER THE POND THE BETTER (DEPENDING ON YOUR BUDGET AND LANDSCAPE)

A LARGER POND IS MORE STABLE

SETTING UP YOUR POND

MOST PONDS WILL BE FILLED USING TAP WATER, WE RECOMMEND YOU USE A DECHLORINATER THAT ALSO REMOVES HEAVY METALS.PH SHOULD BE CHECKED BY THE USE OF A POND TEST KIT, THE SAFE RANGE FOR YOUR POND IS BETWEEN 6.5-8.5 WITH 7.5 BEING THE IDEAL, IF THE POND IS OUT OF THIS RANGE THEN A PH ADJUSTER SHOULD BE USED.

A BIO STARTER CAN BE ADDED TO START UP THE ESSENTIAL BIOLOGICAL CYCLE

WATER QUALITY

FISH AND PLANTS IN PONDS DEPEND ENTIRELY ON THEIR ENVIRONMENT THAT THEY LIVE IN FOR THEIR HEALTH. FAILURE TO KEEP THE WATER HEALTHY WILL RESULT IN SICKNESS AND DEATH

THE NITROGEN CYCLE OCCURS IN ALL MATURE PONDS. IN A WELL STOCKED POND YOU NEED A FILTER WHICH ACCELERATES THE NITROGEN CYCLE AND ACTS LIKE A SEWAGE TREATMENT.

TEST FOR AMMONIA AND NITRITE TO ENSURE THESE REMAIN AT ZERO

THE NITROGEN CYCLE NEEDS TO BE ESTABLISHED AND CAN TAKE UP TO SIX WEEKS

DURING THE FIRST FEW WEEKS OR AFTER KILLING OFF ALL THE GOOD BACTERIA.AMMONIA IS LETHAL TO FISH AND IS THE HIGHEST KILLER IN FISH.

NITRATE IS LESS TOXIC BUT IS STILL STRESSFUL TO THE FISH AND IN HIGH READINGS CAN CAUSE DEATH

FILTRATION

IF YOU INTEND HAVING FISH THEN YOUR POND SHOULD BE FILTERED., THIS WILL ALSO HELP REDUCE ALGAE AND YOUR POND WILL LOOK CLEARER

THE LIFE SUPPORT SYSTEM FOR YOUR POND IS YOUR FILTER. THE POND WATER IS CONSTANTLY CIRCULATED THROUGH THE BACTERIA IN YOUR FILTER WHICH BREAKS DOWN THE WASTE TO MAINTAIN HEALTHY WATER YOUR FILTER MUST BE CLEANED SO THAT IT CAN WORK EFFICIENTLY. THIS IS VERY EASY BY

FOLLOWING A FEW STEPS.

TURN PUMP OFF AND REMOVE FROM POND DO NOT LIFT BY CABLE

REMOVE SPONGE FILTER AND PREFILTER

RINSE IN BUCKET OF POND WATER, IT IS ONLY NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE HEAVY PARTICLES

REASSEMBLE AND RETURN PUMP TO POND

IF USING FILTER MEDIA DO NOT ALLOW TO DRY AND QUICKLY WASH THEM OUT IN A BUCKET OF POND

WATER

RETURN THE MEDIA TO THE FILTER ENSURING THE MEDIA DOES NOT BLOCK ANY PIPE WORK

ESSENTIAL RULE

IT IS IMPORTANT NOT TO WASH YOUR FILTER SPONGE WITH TAP WATER AS THIS WILL KILL LARGE NUMBERS OF GOOD BACTERIA ONLY EVER USE WATER FROM YOUR POND TO CLEAN YOUR FILTER

AERATION

FISH NEED HEALTHY OXYGENATED WATER TO THRIVE.IT IS VITAL THAT YOUR POND HAS SUFFICIENT AERATION TOGAS OFF ANY UNWANTED CARBON DIOXIDE AND MAXIMISE THE UPTAKE OF OXYGEN.

AERATION CAN BE ACHIEVED IN SEVERAL WAYS

A POND PUMP SUPPLIES WATER MOVEMENT,WHICH AIDS OXYGENATION

AIR PUMPS CAN SUPPLY A LOT OF AIR TO SEVERAL AIRSTONES PLACED IN BOTH THE POND AND BIOLOGICAL FILTER,THE FILTRATION BACTERIA ALSO NEEDS A GOOD SUPPLY OF OXYGENATED WATER TO THRIVE.

FOUNTAINS PROVIDE EXCELLENT DECORATION AND AERATION.THEY CAN HOWEVER BE NOISY AT NIGHT,ENSURE ALTERNATIVE AERATIONSHOULD BE SUPPLIED IF YOU TURN YOUR FOUNTAINOFF AT NIGHT WATERFALLS ARE A NATURAL WAY OF INCREASING AERATION

OXYGENATING PLANTS ONLY PROVIDE OXYGEN IN DAYLIGHT,AT NIGHT THEY USE OXYGEN SEE OUR POND PLANT IINFORMATION SHEET

PLANTING

POND PLANTS LOOK GOOD AND ADD COLOUR THEY PROVIDE AN AREA FOR YOUR FISH TO HIDE.

KEEPING LIVE PLANTS IN THE POND WILL HELP REDUCE ALGAE GROWTH

WATER LILLIE’S REQUIRE SOME SUN EVERY DAY, AND ALL DEAD LEAVES SHOULD BE REMOVED BEFORE THEY DECAY

Axolotyl Care

ONE OF THE WORLDS MOST INTERESTING CREATURES THE AXOLOTLS ARE THE LARVAL STAGE OF A SALAMANDER AND ARE DIFFERENT FROM OTHER AMPHIBIANS IN THAT THEY ARE ABLE TO REPRODUCE WHILE REMAINING A SEXUALLY MATURE LARVA THE

AXOLOTL CAN GROW TO 30 CM AND COME IN DARK GREY, BROWN, ALBINO, GOLDEN AND

SPOTTED. THEY ARE ALSO COMMONLY REFERRED TO AS MEXICAN WALKING FISH,

THIS NAME REFERS TO THE HABIT OF WALKING WHILST STILL UNDER WATER

THEY SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED FROM THE WATER AS THEY WILL DIE AS WILL ANY OTHER FISH.

AXOLOTLS ARE SUPPOSED TO HAVE THE ABILITY TO UNDERGO METAMORPHOSIS (SIMILAR TO A TADPOLE CHANGING IN TO A FROG) AND CHANGE IN TO AN AIR BREATHING, LAND DWELLING SALAMANDER, BUT THIS VERY SELDOM OCCURS. IT SEEMS THAT MOST STRAINS HAVE NOW LOST THE ABILITY TO METAMORPHOSE.

HOUSING

THEY SHOULD BE CARED FOR IN SIMILAR CONDITIONS AS GOLDFISH AS THEIR

REQUIREMENTS ARE THE SAME. THE TANK SHOULD BE AERATED AND FILTERED. AS

AXOLOTLS EXTRACT OXYGEN FROM THE WATER THROUGH THEIR GILLS AND THE

QUALITY AND CLARITY OF THE WATER IS IMPORTANT FOR THEIR HEALTH

AN AQUARIUM 60 CM X 30 CM X 30 CM WILL HOUSE A FULL GROWN PAIR OF AXOLOTLS

THE LIGHTING SHOULD BE KEPT DIM AS THEY ARE SOMEWHAT NOCTURNAL IN NATURE.

FEEDING

IN THE AQUARIUM AXOLOTL CAN BE FED SMALL PIECES OF RAW LEAN BEEF OR BEEF LIVER OR BEEF HEART BEEF HEART IS AVAILABLE IN PRE PACKAGED PUSH OUT BLISTER PACK FROM US) AS WITH ALL ANIMALS A VARIED DIET IS IMPORTANT AND THEY CAN ALSO HAVE EARTHWORMS, TADPOLES. BLOOD WORMS AND EVEN SMALL FISH,

SOME DAYS THEY WILL NOT EAT BUT YOU MUST REMOVE ANY UNEATEN FOOD AS IT WILL QUICKLY FOUL THE WATER

REQUIREMENTS FOR FOOD INCREASE WITH THE WARMER TEMPERATURE AND AT

TEMPERATURES BELOW 10 DEGREES THEY USUALLY REFUSE TO EAT ALTOGETHER

BREEDING

MALE AND FEMALE AXOLOTLS ARE DIFFICULT TO DIFFERENTIATE, EVEN WHEN THEY ARE SEXUALLY MATURE AT ABOUT 12 MONTHS OF AGE. THE MALE SHOWS SWELLING AROUND THE CLOACE (THE SEXUAL OPENING) IS MORE SLENDER ,HAS A LONGER TAIL AND THE HEAD IS NARROWER. THE FEMALE LAYS BETWEEN 300 TO 1000 EGGS WHEN SHE SPAWNS IN EARLY SPRING. EGGS HATCH IN TWO WEEKS AT A TEMPERATURE OF 14—18 DEGREES THE PARENTS SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM THE TANK AFTER SPAWNING AND THE YOUNG RAISED ON LIVE FOOD

WHEN LARGE NUMBERS OF AXOLOTLS ARE KEPT TOGETHER IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THEM WELL FED AS THEY MAY ATTACK OTHER AXOLOTLS

IT IS INTERESTING THAT IN THE EVENT OF A LIMB OR PORTION OF THE FISH BEING BITTEN OFF ,IT WILL REGENERATE. THE DAMAGED INDIVIDUAL SHOULD BE ISOLATED AND GIVEN

EXTRA FOOD AND ATTENTION

THE REGENERATION PROCESS SEEMS TO BE MORE RAPID AT LOWER TEMPERATURES.

LIFE SPAN

GIVEN THE RIGHT CONDITIONS, THE AXOLOTL SHOULD GIVE YOU 10—15 YEARS OF

ENJOYMENT

Turtle Health

Turtle Health.

The two most common health problems with turtles are Soft Shell/ Calcium

Deficiency and Fungus.

Calcium Deficiency is usually indicated by a soft shell, weak movement and or deformed shell

It is always best to prevent rather than cure and good prevention includes

keeping your tank clean, adding calcium blocks or Kh buffer and moderate

exposure of uvb light from the sun (un-filtered) or reptile globe.

If you suspect a calcium deficiency it is wise to feed additional calcium sprinkled on top of food.

A visit to the vet for Calcium injections is advisable for severe deficiency.

Fungus is very common on baby turtles and is very easily treatable. Prevention is always the best way and that includes regular walks to dry the skin, a clean tank and buffered ph.

To treat, dry turtle and paint infection with Betadine or fungus-ade, clean tank and repeat daily until infection is gone. Anti Fungus blocks are a useful tool in preventing this infection.

Turtle Diet

Turtles are omnivores and will eat almost anything. Regular feedings of

commercially made mixes is best (turtle dinner and dry pellet) and supplemented with treats such as plants, worms and vegetables. Some favorite treats include peeled tomato, ripe banana, crickets, and live fish.

It is a good practice to remove turtle from the tank for feeding, place in a small tub with a little water and feed. This prevents the tank from getting dirty from left over’s and builds a bond with you and the turtle to trigger feeding times

Plants

Aluminium and Purple waffle are two stand outs, the turtles enjoy eating them, however they seem to last the longest and have thick stems for little turtles to rest on. Other plants like Vallis, Blue Stricta and Pennywort are also good substitutes.

Water Changes

WATER QUALITY IS PARAMOUNT TO FISH HEALTH AND UNLESS CONDITIONS ARE RIGHT ,FISH HEALTH ,DISEASES AND FISH LOSS WILL BE  EXPERIENCED. THERE ARE MANY HEALTH

PROBLEMS THAT ARE BEYOND YOUR CONTROL, LIKE ANY ANIMALS THEY ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO A RANGE OF  PROBLEMS SUCH AS TUMORS,HEART AND ORGAN DISEASE, AS WELL AS METABOLIC DISEASES SUCH AS DIABETES. HOWEVER THE OVERWHELMING MAJORITY OF COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS INVOLVE  AN EXTERNAL PARASITES, FUNGUS, GILL AND

BACTERIAL INFECTIONS, AN IMPORTANT POINT IS THAT ANY BODY OF WATER WILL BE

TEAMING WITH MILLIONS OF BACTERIA, AND NEARLY ALL FISH CARRY SMALL POPULATIONS OF  PARASITES AND THEY ARE  WAITING FOR A OPPORTUNITY TO PRESENT THEMSELVES. IN GENERAL THERE NEEDS TO BE A PREDISPOSING FACTOR SUCH AS POOR ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS, POOR NUTRITION, OVERCROWDING OR POOR WATER QUALITY. IN ADDITION TO CAUSING STRESS, WHICH WILL DEPRESS THE FISH IMMUNE SYSTEM .EVEN WHEN ADDING NEW FISH THAT APPEAR HEALTHY MAY CAUSE STRESS TO THE TANK AND YOU MAY THEN HAVE AN OUTBREAK OF A DISEASE, THIS DISEASE COULD ALREADY BE  PRESENT IN YOUR TANK BUT THERE WAS NO OPPORTUNITY FOR IT TO HAVE AN OUT BREAK

 

WATER CHANGING IS NECESSARY AND VERY IMPORTANT FOR A NUMBER OF REASONS.

THE FIRST IS THAT THE POLLUTION THAT OCCURS IN THE WATER CAN BECOME QUITE TOXIC IF IT IS NOT DILUTED BY FRESH WATER,WITH THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT AND A LITTLE

PREPARATION WATER CHANGES CAN BE AN EASY JOB

 

SECONDLY THE GRAVEL AND FILTERS NEED TO BE CLEANED ON A REGULAR BASIS  TO

PREVENT THEM FROM BECOMING CLOGGED(A GRAVEL CLEANER CAN BE USED TO SUCK OUT THE DIRT FROM THE GRAVEL.

WE RECOMMEND A 25% – 30% WATER CHANGE EVERY WEEK(SMALLER,MORE REGULAR CHANGES AS RECOMMENDED, DECREASE THE STRESS THAT IS PLACED ON THE FISH

 

IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE WATER YOU ARE  REPLACING IS OF SIMILAR TEMPERATURE TO THE TANK WATER AND HAS BEEN TREATED WITH DE-CHLORINATING DROPS.

 

DO NOT TOTALLY CLEAN YOUR WHOLE AQUARIUM WATER,GRAVEL AND FILTERS ON THE SAME DAY AS YOU THEN HAVE REMOVED  THE GOOD BACTERIA AND YOUR TANK CYCLE WILL HAVE TO START ALL OVER AGAIN,WE SUGGEST YOU RINSE THE FILTER OUT IN THE WATER YOU HAVE REMOVED FROM YOUR AQUARIUM

 

Tropical Marine Fish Only Aquariums

THE SET UP AND MAINTENANCE OF A TROPICAL  MARINE FISH TANK IS LITTLE DIFFERENT TO THE AVERAGE FRESHWATER

TROPICAL TANK. IN BOTH CASES OF COURSE,WE NEED TO PROVIDE  AN ENVIRONMENT THAT CLOSELY RESEMBLES THE ENVIRONMENT THAT THE FISH  NATURALLY INHABITS

ESPECIALLY THE WATER QUALITY.

THE TANK SHOULD HOLD AT LEAST 100 LITRES, FILTRATION SHOULD BE A GOOD CANISTER FILTER,OR TRICKLE FILTER.

PROTEIN SKIMMERS ARE OPTIONAL FOR A FISH ONLY SET UP,BUT THEY DO IMPROVE THE WATER QUALITY

LIVE ROCK IS ROCK THAT HAS BEEN COLLECTED  FROM THE REEF AREA AND CONTAINS A LOT OF THE BENEFICIAL BACTERIA THAT IS REQUIRED TO ENABLE THE FISH WASTE TO BE BROKEN DOWN FROM A POISONOUS COMPOUND (AMMONIA) IN TO A  RELATIVELY HARMLESS ONE (5-10 KG OF ROCK  PER 100 LITRES IS RECOMMENDED)

PATIENCE IS A MUST AND SLOWLY IS THE WAY TO GO

WATER CHANGES OF USUALLY AROUND 30% FORTNIGHTLY

HOWEVER,THE WATER NEEDS TO BE PREPARED 24 HOURS PRIOR TO THE CHANGE,IT SHOULD BE AERATED AND HEATED TO 25 DEGREES AND READY TO GO IN TO THE AQUARIUM BEFORE ANY WATER IS REMOVED.

WE RECOMMEND RUNNING YOUR TANK WITH TWO HEATERS IN CASE OF A PROBLEM WITH THE HEATER,  IT DOES NOT COST ANY MORE TO RUN TWO HEATERS AS THEY WILL BOTH TURN OFF QUICKER.

THE LITTLE EXTRA EFFORT WILL MAKE IT ALL WORTHWHILE WHEN YOU SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE VIBRANT COLOURS AND BEHAVIOURS OF YOUR SPECTACULAR MARINE FISH.

Small bowls

BOWLS  CAN BE KEPT WITHOUT FILTRATION,BUT YOU SHOULD CHOOSE A BOWL THAT HAS A WIDE

OPENING SO THAT MORE WATER IS EXPOSED TO THE AIR,ALSO IF YOU CAN,A SMALL AIRSTONE CONNECTED TO AN AIR PUMP WILL GREATLY BENEFIT YOUR FISH BY PROVIDING ADDITIONAL OXYGEN.

IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE  NUMBER OF FISH IS KEPT LOW  USUALLY ONE OR TWO FISH IS THE

MAXIMUM .

SETTING UP YOUR BOWL IS VERY SIMILAR TO A TANK.WASH THE GRAVEL OUT AND ADD THE CHLORINE NEUTRALISER

FEEDING SHOULD BE CARRIED OUT VERY CAREFULLY.

IF THEIR IS UNEATEN FOOD AFTER ONE MINUTE REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF FOOD NEXT TIME

OVERFEEDING CAUSES WASTE BUILD UP PRODUCING AMMONIA IN YOUR BOWL AND THIS IS A VERY COMMON FISH KILLER  (IF YOUR FISH ARE SITTING ON THE BOTTOM OR GASPING FOR AIR AT THE

SURFACE OR THE WATER LOOKS CLOUDY ,IT IS LIKELY THAT YOU HAVE AMMONIA IN YOUR BOWL AND A WATER CHANGE IS NECESSARY)

THERE ARE SOME PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET THAT WILL HELP TO MINIMISE THIS PROBLEM

 

WATER CHANGES

IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU USE TAP WATER AND ADD THE CHLORINE NEUTRALISER

CHANGE THE WATER WEEKLY BY REMOVING THE FISH AND PLACE IT IN 50% OF THE ORIGINAL WATER. STIR THE GRAVEL SO THAT YOU DISTURB THE DIRT IN THE BOTTOM

DO NOT WASH THE GRAVEL IN TAP WATER,

RETURN THE FISH AND THE ORIGINAL WATER AND THEN TOP UP WITH FRESH TREATED WATER

 

BOWLS DO NOT REGULATE THE TEMPERATURE VERY WELL,SO THEY MUST BE PLACED IN A SPOT FREE FROM DRAUGHTS OR AWAY FROM GLASS WINDOWS

 

THE ADDITION OF A SIMPLE FILTER IMPROVES THE WATER QUALITY

 

CHEMICALS

IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER NOT TO SPRAY ANY CHEMICALS NEAR

YOUR BOWLS,SUCH AS FURNITURE POLISH,INSECT SPRAY ,ROOM DEODORANTS ETC.

 

Siamese Fighting Fish

Siamese Fighting Fish

Scientific name: Betta splendens

Introduction:

They are Named due to the aggressive behavior displayed between Males, each male having to be housed separately to prevent them fighting each other. Female Fighters are not aggressive to each other and several specimens can be safely housed with each other, or with a male.

Aquarium care:

Fighters are excellent aquarium fish, easy to keep and suitable for community aquariums. Tank mates can be any similar sized peaceful species, but should not include fin-nippers such as some Barbs, or male Guppies (which are sometimes attacked by Fighters due to their showoff tail). Male Fighters can also be kept singly in glass bowls or similar small receptacles, provided temperatures are not too cool (such as in a well heated apartment). In South Australia and Cooler States a heat source of some kind is recommended. Fighters prefer temperatures of 24-30C. They are not particularly fussy about water conditions, a neutral pH and moderate general hardness (100-150ppm) is fine. (If kept in a small bowl etc, ensure the fish receive regular partial water changes with aged water at the required temperature.) Distribution and natural habitat: Fighters are native to Thailand and neighboring countries such as Cambodia. They inhabit still or slow moving waters, typical habitats include small streams, swamps and rice paddies. A type of Anabantid fish, fighters have an ancillary breathing organ known as a labyrinth organ, which allows the fighter to take a gulp of air and then extract the oxygen from it. This allows them to survive waters with low dissolved oxygen levels (such as in warm shallow swampy conditions). Wild fighters have relatively short fins compared to most “domestic” Fighters and are not as colourful. Like the Guppy, Siamese Fighters have been developed into many different fin varieties, and an impressive array of colour forms.

Breeding:

Fighters are a bubble nest breeder: the males construct a nest at the water surface and court females with exaggerated displays. (The females are usually smaller than the males, with much shorter finnage and are generally less colourful.) During mating, the male collects the eggs and places them in his nest, guarding the nest until the fry are free swimming.

Products:

We have a Selection of Siamese Fighting fish products that are designed to make keeping your beautiful Betta Easier. Click on the Fighter Products Image to see these Products.